Monday, January 30, 2012

01-24, Tues. to 01-29, Sun, La Cruz

Another week in paradise! La Cruz is such a lovely anchorage and the surrounding areas of the Banderas Bay are great! Although, we have yet to venture out too much yet. This week the town of Bucerias was hosting a festival in which the fishermen get their pangas blessed for the season (similar to our Opening Day on the Bay). Dick got some pics of their decorated pangas as they sped past us on their way to Bucerias.

We spent most of this week continuing to sample the restaurants around town. The German restaurant in town, “The Black Forest”, had a “Beerfest” night with special items on the menu, so we went there that night. The food was terrific. We are going to have to go back for dessert though, as we didn’t have enough room to fit it in. (We also went back t6 the “Brittania”for Sheppard’s Pie and checked out the “Octopuss’s Garden , owned bt a Brirish couple who sailed in twenty years ago and never left – D).We also spent a few evenings checking out the local music scene. (Tami’s starting to make some connections into the local music scene – D)

Dick took a trip to the big chandlery in the area, Zaragosa Marine, in Nuevo Vallarta, which is on the way to PV, but didn’t find anything he needed at this time. (Once again we’re getting to the point of at least partially mastering the local bus system, a must if you want to avoid the expensive taxi’s – D)

We took a short trip over to Bucerias yesterday, which is next door to La Cruz (after a cruiser’s swap meet at which I did find a few useful items – D). It is a small bayside town on the beach. It is far more commercially tourist than La Cruz. They had restaurants on the beach with a lot of the roving vendors bothering you. We walked the streets which were lined with touristy shops and vendors trying to get you to walk in. In that respect it was kind of like being in Cabo, but smaller. We were told to go to the town square and get tacos from the street taco stands, especially the ones who make their own tortillas. So, we did!!! Very good advice!! They were super yummy! We also each got an ice cream cone at the corner shop. Nice trip and a nice way to end the week. (Last night was beautiful night in the anchorage, calm, flat and mild temperatures – lazy night to end a relaxing week – D)

Last but not least, we got some laundry and provisioning done.

This week we are planning to visit more surrounding towns. (And maybe sail over to Yelapa for a day or so – D)

Monday, January 23, 2012

01-17 to 01-23 Banderas Bay

01-17, Tues. through 01-23, Sun. -- We are here in La Cruz de Huanacaxtle, Banderas Bay, enjoying the nice warmer weather in this region. It is in the low 80’s every day with a nice breeze that comes up in the afternoon. Below is a list of things we’ve done this week:



- We explored the darling town of La Cruz, which we absolutely LOVE! It is a small town with several streets, cobblestone, brick or dirt roads, very friendly people, lots and lots of good restaurants and LOTS of music. They play music in at least one of the restaurants every night and usually more than one! There is everything from rock and roll, jazz to country music being played. The more popular places in town are Philo’s, CafĂ© Huanacaxtle, Ana Bananas, The Britannia, The Octopusses Garden and The Black Forest. There are MANY more though. You could spend a year just trying to eat your way through this tiny town. (This does not count the small nighttime taco places that sprout up on the streets at night – D)

- We spent most of this week just walking the streets of town, eating our way around town, listening to music and visiting with a lot of fellow cruisers we haven’t seen in a while.

- We also took a side trip on a bus on Saturday for the day to Old PV. It is about an hour ride on the bus to Old PV as it is the southern-most part of PV (the ride was in a unair-conditioned bus with a suspension that died years ago, but it was cheap – 15 pesos for a one hour bus trip – D) . We were dropped off in a non-tourist part of the old town but with a map and some help from very friendly locals we soon found our way to the beach. We had lunch at a beach-side restaurant. They were launching people on a parasail from the beach right in front of us. I much prefer the kind that launch you from the back of the boat on a platform, than a beach take-off. It was fun to watch though. We were surprised that the prices in the restaurant were not any more expensive than in La Cruz, which are cheap. We then walked further south on the beach and walked the Malecon to the heart of old tourist PV, checking out the shops, clubs and restaurants. It was a lovely day and will be fun to spend more time in that portion of town.

- When we returned from Old PV, we were rapidly informed that “Journey” had pulled anchor while we were gone and a bunch of people had boarded her and reset our anchor!! WOW! Scary! Thank goodness we leave the key in the ignition, and someone was able to locate our windlass motor switch in the V berth. We had not locked the boat, or they would have had to break the door to get in. It seems to be a very safe area. No one locks their dinghy to the boat or the dinghy dock either. However, we now know that we need to pull and reset the anchor every few days, as we turn around and around on the anchor the chain gets wrapped around the anchor and will pull it. In this instance it had actually gotten wrapped around one of the flukes of the claw. Thank goodness we are surrounded by folks who knew just what to do and took care of it. One man started the engine, the other found the windlass switch and a few dinghy’s were in the water trying to keep her from drifting down on anyone while they were doing all this. Whew!!!!! We owe some folks big time. Thank goodness no one and nothing was injured or damaged.

- We watched the 49er game at Philo’s in town on Sunday. Sad we didn’t win the Championship, but a good game was played. We are very proud of their performance this year.

This coming week we are going to check into a land trip to Guadalajara with a group of people. We will be going to a meeting this evening regarding this possible trip and will keep y’all posted. We will also be doing more exploring of the Banderas Bay area. Our friends on “Nirvana” arrived in Nuevo Vallarta and we will be visiting them. They are in the Paradise Village Marina, for which we won a free week stay. So, we want to check it out. It has a five-star resort associated to it and you can avail yourselves of all the amenities when you stay in the marina. Woo Hoo!

Tuesday, January 17, 2012

01-11, Chacala to 01-16 trip to PV

01-11, Wed. to 01-13, Fri. – These next few days were a nice relaxing few days in this beautiful anchorage. We met some interesting people to chat with, heard some interesting stories, laid about and read, relaxed in the hammock, tried the local cuisine, walked the town, walked the beach, did some cleaning on the boat, etc. etc. (At the far end of the beach, there was an exclusive high end yoga retreat http://www.mardejade.com Quite chi-chi – D)

01-14, Saturday – 49er game is today!! One of the owners ( a charming English lady named Amelia – D) of a palapa restaurant on the beach, Chac Mool, (http://chacala-cafe.blogspot.com/) and (http://chacmoolcafe.webs.com/) promised that they would bring their own personal TV down so we could watch the game and sure enough, when we got there it was there. It was a beautiful big-screen TV and they had set it up on a rickety fold up card table. One of the legs looked like it was about to collapse. It was funny! ( But it worked – D). At any rate we got to watch the best game we have seen in years!!! Of course we won. That pretty much covered it for the day.

01-15, Sunday – We decided to stay one more day we’ve been enjoying here so much. (Plus I had a day’s worth of boat maintenance projects to address that I hadn’t gotten to what with all the enjoying going on – D) Made one more trip to the beach, picked up some bread at the store and readied ourselves for tomorrow’s trip to La Cruz, in Banderas Bay.


01-16, Monday – We headed out at nearly 9:00 am for this approx. 7 hour trip. Just as we got out of the anchorage we saw about 5 whales playing in the bay. We have seen more whales in the last couple weeks than we’ve seen in our entire lives. The trip was uneventful, no wind, humid and motor sailing the entire way. The wind came up as we got into Banderas Bay, but we were almost there, so it wasn’t worth the trouble of raising and lowering sail.

We saw more whales along the way and then again in Banderas Bay! Must have seen 10 or 12 whales in all. Saw another big turtle too! I couldn’t figure out what this round black thing floating in the water was. I was worrying it might be a fishing line and then all of a sudden, he stuck his head up and looked around. It was funny!

We arrived and were anchored at 4:00 that afternoon. There are MANY boats (about 50-60 in the anchorage not counting the ones in the marina –D) and people we haven’t seen since the “Ha-Ha” or La Paz, so we scooted around in the dinghy to see who all was here. We will go exploring tomorrow and saying hellos. (Can’t wait to explore, this is supposed to be a very cool town with great food, music and art. The full name is La Cruz de Huanacaxtle for those that may want to look it up – D)

Friday, January 13, 2012

01-05 to 01-10, Trips to Isla Isabel & Chacala

01-05, Thurs – We finished our preparations for the next adventure today and went for pizza dinner in the Marina. Yummy!

01-06, Friday – Passage to Isla Isabel. It was the most exciting passage yet for marine life!! It was a beautiful sunset on Mazatlan as we left the harbor. The lights were beautiful, the seas were nice and calm and the moon was full and bright. There were lots of fishing boats out but easily managed and it was a nice overnight passage.

01-07, Saturday –We were just approaching Isla Isabel in the dawn hours and it was a beautiful. I just came on watch at 6:00 a.m. and was looking out in the distance, I saw a huge water disturbance and then a huge fin come out of the water. As I continued looking in that direction I saw A LOT of water disturbances. There were hundreds of dolphins swimming around a pod of humpback whales!! They were breaching, slapping their tails and waving with their fins. It was beautiful! I wasn’t able to catch any of them on camera, but about an hour later there was another whale Dick spotted out in the distance, that was slapping his tail on the water and blowing water out his blow hole, jumping out of the water and splashing down. (It looked like he(?) was standing on his head in the water, slapping his tail over and over- D). I got some great pictures of it!! I also saw a huge sting ray jump about 8 feet out of the water twice. He was beautiful! Then as if that wasn’t enough, about a half hour later a whale came right up in front of the boat and blew water, slapped his tail down and submerged. I had to throttle back and turn to port so I wouldn’t run over his tail!! WOW!! Excellent!! Very exciting!

Isla Isabel had come into view at the last whale sighting and it is beautiful. We had to watch carefully for fishermen’s drift nets. This is very rich fishing grounds and there are many panga fishermen and big shrimp fishing boats. We pulled into the anchorage and found five boats anchored. We didn’t really like it because the bottom here is rocky and there are reefs around the shore. So, we tried the southern anchorage, but that was too small for us and even more dangerous reefs there. So, we went back to the other anchorage and found ourselves a spot we could live with. What a fantastic place this is!!

Isla Isabel is an isolated volcanic island, a protected national park and a World Heritage Site. As a matter of fact, Isabel is nicknamed “The Galapagos of Mexico”. The only thing on it is a fishermen’s camp in the southern anchorage. There are so many birds it is amazing! They have Blue-footed Boobies, Green, Red, Yellow and Brown-footed Boobies, which are only found here on this island and on the Galapagos islands. Also, I have never seen so many Frigates it is like being in the movie “The Birds”. We are going to the Island tomorrow to take pictures and explore. There is a big crater lake in the middle of the island where the volcano used to blow from, now filled with water, that we want to go see as well.

We napped of course after an overnight passage and enjoyed the beautiful sights in this anchorage.

01-08, Sunday – Another beautiful day in paradise! Very calm, sunny and lovely. We launched the dinghy and attempted to row ashore in this anchorage, but the surf was pretty big and there are a lot of volcanic rocks and reef along the shore. We decided not to go at that time as it was kind of precarious. We stopped at a boat by the name of “Cricket”, with Pat & Lynn aboard, and chatted with them for a while. They were out of Santa Cruz. So, we had lots to chat about with them. They have been coming down here for years, so had lots of interesting and educational experiences to share. They had been down as far as El Salvador & Ecuador.

The surf didn’t calm down, so we went back to the boat for a while. The tide went down after a bit and we could see the reef exposed now all along the shore. We tried again, thinking we could find an opening somewhere, but were not comfortable with it. Pat & Lynn had told us that most people go around the point to the southern anchorage and beach land there at the fishermen’s camp. So, we put the motor on the dinghy and did just that. Much easier landing area there and a shorter walk to the places we want to visit.

We started walking to the trail that would take us up a bluff and were immediately engulfed in birds!! Birds in the trees, birds on the trail, birds in the air!! (And you could walk right up to them, absolutely no fear of people – D) It is nesting time too. It was mostly Frigates in the lower areas sitting in trees, in the air, on nests or watching over their darling white fluffy chicks. It is truly a sight to see. As we climbed the bluff (REALLY STEEP), we started running into the Boobies. They were not too happy to see us walking by their nests, but we got great pictures of them as we went by. The Blue-Footed Boobies are my favorites and the prettiest. Their feet are soooooo blue!! They nest on the ground . (You had to watch where you were stepping and could walk right up to a nesting Mama. Mama would squawk at you and stand proudly over her eggs, but as soon as you passed she settle right back on her eggs – D) We got to the top which had stunning 360 degree views! We worked our way over to where a trail was supposed to be to get down. We managed to figure out how to get down from there. It was not marked and we had to kind of push our way through some of the overgrowth. There are so many birds, nests, babies and the majestic male Frigates with their bright red necks that blow up like a balloon, that you almost miss the Iguanas! We did see a few though.

We also found our way to the crater lake named “Lago Crater” tee hee. It is very pretty and serene. There were birds and iguanas everywhere.

We went back to the boat and prepared for tomorrow and our day-long passage to Chacala, had dinner and watched a movie.

01-09, Monday – We got up at dawn, raised anchor and set sail for Chacala. It started off as kind of overcast today and we had some wind, so we were able to motor sail. About 2 hours into the trip a whale stuck his big fin out of the water very close to the boat. I had just looked up to do a scan of the water and there he was! He did some more waving, slapped his tail and humped under the surface. He didn’t come back up though, so it was a short bit of excitement.
The fishermen’s nets were a problem the entire way across, so we had to keep a vigilant watch for the little black flags attached to floating poles. They are very difficult to see and you don’t know which way the line extends from the pole other than that it probably goes windward. Some of them had a little plastic bottle at the other end of the net, but again very hard to see. Also, we watched for the pangas because where there was a panga there were nets.

Since this is such a rich fishing ground and we were cooking along about 6.5 knots, I decided to FINALLY fish! YAAAAAAAY! Rudy…. Charlie….. I caught my first fish!!!! Looks to be a blue or blackfin tuna, about 18 inches long and around 8 lbs. We had to slow down and bring it on the boat, drain the blood, clean it, filet it and then clean up the mess. Very exciting! We got a couple of 2-pound filets out of it. Will have that for dinner tomorrow.
That pushed our arrival time out to about 5 o’clock in Chacala, but also the time is now one hour later. We are now on Central Time. What a lovely anchorage! We got settled in and will explore it tomorrow. Our friends, Bill & Brenda, on “Tahnoo” are here also, so will have lunch with them tomorrow as well.

01-10, Tues – We rowed ashore, checked in with the Port Captain, very nice fellow, and then walked the trail to the beach area. It is very lovely! (It is known as an eco-tourism spot, with a rich gringo gated community on the north end and a ritzy, exclusive Yoga spa on the south end – D) The Port Captain recommended the first restaurant for breakfast, so we had our breakfast there. They had really good coffee and the food was very tasty! After enjoying our meal, we walked down the beach past all the palapa restaurants (a half dozen or so and a small local hotel– D) and then back on the street side behind the beach . (Main street was all of about 4-5 blocks long, a couple of small tiendas and a few more small local hotels – I think you could walk every street in town in an hour - D) When I say street I mean cobblestones, sort of. There are round stones pushed into the dusty dirt. (Only two of the streets warranted the cobblestone treatment the rest were dirt – D) There are a handful of souvenir/artsy crafty/trinket kinds of stores.

Bill and Brenda met us at one of the palapa restaurants for lunch. The fish tacos were terrific! We met some folks who were traveling through the area and had interesting conversations. The margaritas were very good there too. Too good! ( and strong – D) We hung out there all afternoon and headed back to the boat for a quiet evening. (It was somewhat of a rolly evening but uneventful – D)

Wednesday, January 4, 2012

12-26-2011 to 01-04-2012, Stone Island to Mazatlan Marina

12-26, Monday – We are on a mission today to get the Banda Ancha device so we can access the internet from our boat anywhere, including at anchorage or at sea, that we have cell phone coverage! We also want to go to Marina Mazatlan and make a reservation to move there Wed. this week.

Dave & Leianne are going to go up north as well, so we met them on the Old Mazatlan side to catch a bus up that way. It turned out that one of the small golf cart-type taxis (pulmonias) would drive us up to old town square for 30 pesos, so we did that instead. The drivers name is Jorge Gonzales, aka “Speedy Gonzales”. A really nice fellow that speaks super good English and gave us his cell phone number for future use.

We ate at a Panaderia (Bakery) called “Panama Bakery” that Dave & Leianne had found on their previous exploration of old town. (Delicious and cheap – D) We walked over to the Olas Altas (High Waves) part of town, which is situated on the coast, to catch a bus up to the Dorado Zone. We ended up taking another little taxi. The views were spectacular and the promenade (Malacon) was fantastic. We are looking forward to exploring it when we move up to the marinas.

We parted ways with Dave & Leianne at the Mega Mercado. They were getting provisioned to leave tomorrow for Isla Isabel. We walked up to the Telcel store where we spent the next 2 and a half hours getting our Banda Ancha. Yay! What I forgot to mention is that we had to haul the computer with us to the store so they could activate it and we could make sure it worked properly and knew how to use it. We were fortunate and got a lovely English speaking gal who was wonderfully helpful.

Next we got ourselves another little taxi up to the Marina Mazatlan so we could make a reservation for Wed. and see the facilities. It looks great and we are looking forward to spending a week there exploring new Mazatlan.

We caught a bus outside the Marina that took us all the way back down to the water taxi, down the Malacon and through old town. This will come in handy when we are in the Marina.

We got in our dinghy, back at Beji’s, to head to the boat. It was already dark and we got stuck in the fishermen’s gill net, for the 3rd time. They are not marked very well and drop them in odd places. It took a while before Dick was able to cut us free. Yikes! We won’t miss that part of being at this anchorage.

12-27, Tues – We are just going to relax and enjoy the anchorage today. Hang out at the palapa’s, have pancakes at Carmelita’s and say good bye to our friends at Benji’s.
I am finally going to cook that Christmas dinner I had planned tonight . We are leaving tomorrow for the Marina.

12-28, Wed – We pulled anchor and headed to the Marinas. The trip was uneventful. It only took about 2 ½ hours. It was a little dicey getting in the entrance though, as it was very narrow and shallow with the waves pushing us in, but we made it. The channel was very narrow and there was a dredge parked on the side of the channel. Fortunately it was not operating or it would have been in the middle and we would have had to try to get around it. As it was, we registered 7’ depth at one point. Our draft is 6 ½ feet, so that was close!

We were met by the security folks at the dock we had reserved, who helped us with lines, dock 5 slip 7. It was well marked and there was plenty of room for us to get into the slip. We got settled in and explored around the many restaurants and facilities available to us.

12-29-2011 to 1-1-2012 – We spent this time getting the boat ready in anticipation of some buggy anchorages in our future travels to the south of us. Edress had made screens for the hatches years ago and Dick started the process of affixing them with Velcro to the frames of the hatches. We need to get netting to cover the cockpit areas around the dodger. There is a fabric store in the old town we can go to for bridal veil material that will work perfectly.
We met more folks that we had done the “Ha Ha” with and some new folks too. We got to spend time at the resort pool and hot tub in the adjacent marina (really nice).

Dick is getting more comfortable with the SSB radio and all the different “cruiser nets” we can check in with. (I now have four – five different nets to pay attention to – D) We are getting back in contact with folks we haven’t seen in a while and staying in contact with those we have recently met.

Lots of good food here too!! We had a super inexpensive meal at a place called “The Fat Fish”. No…. we didn’t have fish….. we had ribs, of all things. 2 plates for 1. The ribs didn’t fit on the plate, the slab was so big!! How much did it cost???? $160 pesos ($12.00 American) good grief! With baked potato, salad and bread. (Lots of good beef here – D)

NEW YEARS EVE! We got together with Nick & Nancy from “Jessie Marie” and went to a Cuban-Mexican restaurant on the Malacon. Had another fabulous meal for not much $, then walked up the Malacon to a party on the beach at a restaurant called “Chili Peppers” not far from where we had dinner. They had a band, bon fire and you could see the fireworks that all the resort hotels put on. There weren’t a lot, but it was pretty. We saw our Canadian friends from “Tanoo”, Bill & Brenda, and from “August Moon”, Russ & Doreen there. They are staying at the El Cid Marina. We took a taxi home from there at about 1:00 am, 2012.

We spent the 1st relaxing (recovering – D) on the boat, playing WOW and then went to the sports bar near the marina to watch the 49ers win yet again! Yay!

01-02 to 01-04 – We continued the screen project, did some provisioning, visiting with friends, hanging by the pool/hot tub, enjoying local restaurants/music, riding the local buses around, getting the boat ready to leave. We will be leaving day after tomorrow (Friday 1/6).

This will be the last blog until we get to cell phone coverage area again. Stay tuned to see the Blue Boobies, and many one-of-a-kind birds and other fabulous adventures in the anchorages on the way to Puerto Villarta! Miss you all! Kisses & Hugs Happy New Year!